‘Every Cook Must Study Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on List of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.